Overijssel
Two days in Overijssel
The IJsell river flows through the Province of Overijssel and gives it its name, over means about, so it is about, or around, the IJssel and the river forms much of its western border. Overijssel is hilly in the east near Germany and flat in the west. Before the Province of Flevoland was created from reclaimed land after the Afsluitdijk was built, Overijssel was on the coast.
The IJssel near Deventer
Grote Kerk in Zwolle
Knooppunten (numbered markers)
One day I missed a marker in Overijssel, but Lucy spotted the next map and soon sorted out where we were.
Zwolle
It was a beautiful sunny evening, so after a late afternoon drink in the Markt I went to explore and take photographs of the city.
I had read about the controversial bright-blue tiled roof that had been added to the neoclassical building of the Museum De Fundatie. I was expecting it to be a bright blue similar to the Selfridges building in Birmingham, but the tiles are fairly pale, but still looks impressive and strange.
I also walked through the 15th century Sassenpoort, one of the remaining town gates.
I finished the evening in a cafe in the Markt and spent a pleasant evening chatting to a German and Italian who live in Switzerland. They were travelling around by boat so I asked them how you operate the lifting bridges. Frequently while cycling, particularly in towns, you have to stop while the road across a river or canal is lifted to allow boats to pass. They said it varies, sometimes the bridge keeper sees you and opens the bridge, sometimes you press a button or phone ahead and often you have to wait for other boats to join you. Sometimes the keeper is having a lunch break so you have to wait for an hour or more.
Last year when I cycled from Amsterdam I had to wait for this bridge to be raised to slow boats to pass before I could cross into the Province of Flevoland
Deventer
Lucy gives an indication of the scale of the tall windows
The Stadhuis, which was completed in 2016, has a wooden facade containing the fingerprints of 2,264 Deventer citizens cast in aluminium.
The next morning I crossed over the IJssel, vehicles and cyclists use the bridge and there is a ferry for pedestrians. Then I continued to cycle south into Gelderland.
Monday 11th - Tuesday 12th June 2018
The IJsell river flows through the Province of Overijssel and gives it its name, over means about, so it is about, or around, the IJssel and the river forms much of its western border. Overijssel is hilly in the east near Germany and flat in the west. Before the Province of Flevoland was created from reclaimed land after the Afsluitdijk was built, Overijssel was on the coast.
The IJssel near Deventer
The Hanseatic League
Overijssel had some important ports dating from the 800s, and seven towns along the IJssel prospered after the formation of the Hanseatic League, the powerful trading community formed in the mid-13th century. I visited two of these towns, Zwolle and Deventer.
Grote Kerk in Zwolle
Knooppunten (numbered markers)
I have mentioned the excellent Dutch cycle paths several time before. The main routes between towns are signed with red signposts at every junction giving the distance to the next town and are very easy to follow. There is also a network of tracks and paths that crisscross the country. These go through rural countryside and the National parks. Every junction is numbered and marked with a knoopunt, a numbered marker that tells you the direction of the next knooppunt. You can buy Knooppuntennetwerk maps and maps are displayed at strategic points along the routes.
One day I missed a marker in Overijssel, but Lucy spotted the next map and soon sorted out where we were.
Zwolle
Zwolle, the capital of Overijssel, prospered in the 14th and 15th centuries as it was the main trading port for the Hanseatic League and became a cultural centre. It still has some very fine buildings dating from this period. I parked my bike in the secure, free cycle park and went to explore. When you arrive at the park they put a number tag on your bike and give you a ticket. Then when you leave they check that your ticket corresponds with the tag on your bike.
It was a beautiful sunny evening, so after a late afternoon drink in the Markt I went to explore and take photographs of the city.
I had read about the controversial bright-blue tiled roof that had been added to the neoclassical building of the Museum De Fundatie. I was expecting it to be a bright blue similar to the Selfridges building in Birmingham, but the tiles are fairly pale, but still looks impressive and strange.
I also walked through the 15th century Sassenpoort, one of the remaining town gates.
I finished the evening in a cafe in the Markt and spent a pleasant evening chatting to a German and Italian who live in Switzerland. They were travelling around by boat so I asked them how you operate the lifting bridges. Frequently while cycling, particularly in towns, you have to stop while the road across a river or canal is lifted to allow boats to pass. They said it varies, sometimes the bridge keeper sees you and opens the bridge, sometimes you press a button or phone ahead and often you have to wait for other boats to join you. Sometimes the keeper is having a lunch break so you have to wait for an hour or more.
Last year when I cycled from Amsterdam I had to wait for this bridge to be raised to slow boats to pass before I could cross into the Province of Flevoland
Deventer
From Zwolle I continued to Deventer another well preserved Hanseatic League town. As I was tired after a late night chatting in Zwolle, I decided to make an early stop and found a room for the night in a 400 year old house with very high windows overlooking the IJssel.
Lucy gives an indication of the scale of the tall windows
Once I had settled in, I spent the afternoon exploring the old town which has many buildings from the Golden Age. But it was the new Stadhuis that caught my eye.
The Stadhuis, which was completed in 2016, has a wooden facade containing the fingerprints of 2,264 Deventer citizens cast in aluminium.
The next morning I crossed over the IJssel, vehicles and cyclists use the bridge and there is a ferry for pedestrians. Then I continued to cycle south into Gelderland.
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